 |
 |
 |
 |
| gauge shotguns. With bold and birdy puppies,
the usual progression is a week at each stage of noise level,
providing we have no problems along the way. This is a general
guideline. As with people, each pup will be different. You
will only progress to the next level if pup is paying no attention
to the noise whatsoever. Begin by having your planted birds ready in the field, and carry a wing-clipped bird in your vest pocket. You may want to have a helper with you, but you can also work alone keeping in mind that you don't want to be right on top of your pup when you shoot. A helper can stay back some distance from the pup for initial introduction to noise, which aids in the prevention of problems. With pup on his checkcord, work him into the birds. When he points, restrain him quietly and firmly with your checkcord as you approach in front of him to flush. As the bird flushes, release him, letting him drag the checkcord as he chases the bird. Wait until he is a good distance away before you shoot the popgun or clap the blocks together. As he runs around excitedly, grab the end of the checkcord and go on to the next bird, repeating the process. If all goes smoothly, the pup should chase and pay no attention to the noise. After working the first two birds, let him run about, hunting with pumped-up enthusiasm, while dragging the checkcord. Give him the "come around" whistle, and when you have his attention, toss your wing-clipped bird out in the field for him to chase. As he does, you can clap your boards again, or shoot the popgun. During all this, watch your pup carefully. We want to see no sign of the pup paying attention to the noise. If your previous groundwork with birds has been laid, you should have no problem. The following week you'll move to the 22, and repeat the process described, but this time shoot the 22 into the ground, muffling the sound, as the pup is giving chase. After a day or two of this with no problem, try shooting the 22 into the air as he chases the bird, or runs to retrieve your tossed wing-clip. Again, watch him carefully for any sign of hesitation when the gun is shot. If your pup does not chase the bird after the flush, and you shoot near him as he watches the bird fly away, he may notice the gun and look at you. We don't want this to happen. If he intently watches the bird fly away and then gives chase, or continues hunting, it may be okay. But if the sound of the gun causes him to pause, quit hunting, or return to your side these are signs that you will have to backtrack. This means to go back to birdwork only. Using pigeons that fly well can sometimes cause this reaction with pups that aren't as intense on birds as we'd like them to be. The pigeons fly up and away, and the pup quickly loses interest. In this scenario, we will switch to quail. For this gun development phase of training, we don't mind if the quail are not good flyers in fact, it's better if they simply flush and fly a short distance. This will excite the pup and he'll chase them over and over again, maybe even catch them. While he is doing this, he won't have his mind on the sound of the gun. Timing your shot is important never shoot before the bird is flushed and up in the air or at least off the ground and has the pup's full attention as he gives chase. One shot per bird is sufficient maybe two or three shots total per training session. Don't overdo it! In the weeks following, you'll progress to the 32 blank pistol, the 410 shotgun and finally the 20 gauge. You'll follow the same method of shooting first into the ground and watching the pup's reaction each time, before shooting into the air. If the pup accepts the 32 blank pistol with no problems, you are usually in. But don't rush things, and save the 12-gauge for later. At this point, you're not trying to kill these birds over your dog you are simply developing him to the gun. Killing birds will come after he is handling the 20-gauge well. You are also not trying to develop his retrieve you only want him to be |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|